My second visit to Mexico was in the late 1990s as an undergraduate medical anthropology student (why do we always begin at the beginning? I won’t)…my Eritrean friend and I spent a month in a tiny pueblo in rural Oaxaca collecting and classifying medicinal plants. The people in the pueblo were Chatino- an indigenous community- and the women carried healing knowledge in their stories, understanding of plants and sense of the mightiness of nature :: We were ‘las morenitas’- the brown girls- and they welcomed us with a wide embrace. The abuelita was a curandera (mganga/sangoma/traditional healer) and took us through the corn fields and village paths in search of healing plants. And whenever we encountered something awe-inspiring:: like the energetic passion of a fast flowing waterfall :: she and the other women would stop, as if in deference, and say quietly “cosa grande, cosa muy grande”… ( a big thing, a very big thing)…. Ashe *